After driving over 26,000 kilometers in two solo excursions to Xinjiang, the desire to embark on such a journey alone has vanished into the horizon… I have visited Xinjiang three times. The first was in 2018, by train, as a backpacker. Then, in July 2021, I embarked on a solo drive from Mianyang, Sichuan, traversing Qinghai, entering Xinjiang through Mangya and Ruoqiang, exploring the northern region, and ultimately returning to Turpan, exiting Xinjiang through Hami, back to Mianyang. That trip alone covered over 13,000 kilometers.
Fast forward to October 2023, and I found myself driving through Gansu, entering Xinjiang via Hami, and making my way through the region’s vast highways, following the same route back. This journey took me to the Southern Xinjiang, covering another 13,000 kilometers.
Upon reflecting on these two solo drives in Xinjiang, I find myself resigned to the fact that such adventures, at least for now, hold no allure. Many inquire why, given Xinjiang’s immense beauty and vastness, which deserve multiple visits. Truly, one cannot comprehend the vastness of China until one visits Xinjiang. Its beauty, especially during the summer, is breathtaking. Its vastness, however, poses its own challenges. Journeys to destinations can often take a whole day, with counties separated by hundreds of kilometers, explaining the infrequency of deliveries or the need for additional shipping fees.
During my first solo drive in 2021, entering Ruoqiang, driving hundreds of kilometers each day was the norm. For someone accustomed to driving 200 kilometers in a day in the mainland, it was indeed taxing, a significant challenge. The irony didn’t escape me when my camera malfunctioned in the Luoburen Village, necessitating a 500-kilometer drive to Urumqi for repairs. Starting at 3 pm, I arrived only at 1 am. Many might ask why not repair it in Korla? The simple answer is that Urumqi is the only place in Xinjiang with a Sony repair center. At times, the urge to abandon the car was almost irresistible, as I remember being stuck in a traffic jam in Xiaocao Lake in the middle of the night, with a hunger pang and nothing to eat but a few snacks.
The distances in Xinjiang are immense, making it ideal to have a companion for the drive. Otherwise, the monotony and fatigue can be overwhelming. Additionally, driving from Sichuan to Xinjiang involves traversing a vast stretch of Gansu, a journey that takes over 20 hours on the highway. The section from Longnan to Xingxingxia, spanning approximately 1,800 kilometers, is a route I have driven alone four times, and I confess, the novelty has worn off. The initial excitement of driving through the vast, desolate landscapes with sparse traffic gives way to boredom and fatigue. The highway offers little in terms of scenery, and stopping is not an option, leaving one with little to break the monotony.
In conclusion, the toll of driving, both physically and mentally, is immense. The beauty of the landscapes, once novel, becomes familiar and lacks the新鲜感 that once drew me. Although Sichuan and Xinjiang are separated by only one province – whether it be Gansu, Qinghai, or Tibet – each route presents its own challenges. While enjoying the freedom of solo travel, one must also endure the solitude it brings. Alas, one cannot have both the fish and the bear’s paw.
#SoloDriveXinjiang
